I had a meeting with Mr Maqbool Hasan, master weaver from Varanasi, who has also been invited to attend the meeting scheduled for March 14th at India International Centre, New Delhi

Weavers are facing many problems that need to be addressed systematically.

1. Indian Institute of Handloom Technology offers a three year diploma course that covers Fabric Structure, weaving theory, Textile design and colour, General textile technology, Textile Testing, Textile Printing, Textile chemistry, classification of Dye Stuff chemical and auxiliary. This is considered the highest program on textiles. It is however not recognized in Fashion Institutes, Delhi University and IGNOU as a graduate programme. This needs to be upgraded as a degree programme by adding to the curriculum knowledge of improved technology, computers and techniques of spinning. This is important to weavers as 20% seats are reserved for weavers children. These graduates are at the moment being absorbed in export houses, textile committees, silk boards etc. in middle level management.

2. As the demand for sarees has reduced, weavers who can only weave sarees need design help on product diversification for their survival.

3. Upgradation of existing jacquard looms will improve the quality of fabric which can compete favourably with international standards. Our looms are made of metal that reacts to heat, cold and moisture. The weavers are unable to spend Rs.10000-12,000 per loom on using improved quality of metal which would eventually lead to a flawless final product.

4. Dyeing and finishing facilities are inadequate. Machines can be imported but 40% duty acts as a deterrent and even the prosperous weavers find the price too high. My suggestion is perhaps one can think of these as Cooperative Community property for weavers to pay for actual usage.

5. Marketing support to weavers is an important factor. It is closely linked to design diversification and quality control as one leads to the other. Awareness of ‘Indian’ and ‘handloom’ are the key terms that need to be publicized widely.

6. The most immediate problem, however, is the non availability of yarn to the weavers – the price is exorbitant. To make matters worse, China is producing Indian design sarees and fabrics on sizzler machines and dumping them in the Indian market at half the price. The situation today is such that we do not want their finished goods but cannot survive without their yarn, till such time as our sericulture farming is in a position to fulfill total demand of yarn for the weavers in our Country. At the moment, the weavers are working to 50% of their capacity because of yarn shortage and availability of cheaper copies from China. Their average income therefore has come down to approximately Rs.2500/- a month. This applies to the income of the dyer and warper. This is where patents law comes in as also awareness of the consumers who are buying and using cheap copies at the peril of destroying their traditional heritage.